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KwaZulu-Natal and the KZN Drakensberg - South Africa

KwaZulu-Natal

Kwa-Zulu Natal is one of South Africa's most diverse provinces, surrounded by the warm Indian Ocean in the east, Mozambique and Swaziland in the North, Lesotho and the Free State in the west, and the Eastern Cape in the south. Its most well-known city is Durban. KwaZulu-Natal offers all that Africa is famous for: beautiful scenery including Big-Five game reserves, a fascinating history and a melting pot of cultures, endless beaches and a great climate all year round (for more information on our beautiful province see Explore KwaZulu-Natal)

The KZN Drakensberg

"KZN", as the locals call it, also has one of Africa's most stunning mountain landscapes. All along the border with Lesotho, "the world's highest kingdom", runs the Drakensberg escarpment. Drakensberg means "The Mountain of Dragons" in the Afrikaans language and the Zulu's call it even more graphically uKhahlamba, or "The Wall (or Barrier) of Spears". The KZN Drakensberg is easily confused with the Mpumalanga Drakensberg (Blyde River Canyon) to which it is geologically connected as part of the Great South African Escarpment. The KZN Drakensberg is higher, wilder, and more diverse than its more civilised cousin to the north. The average height is about 2900 meter (9800 ft) with a flat and accessible plateau with numerous peaks, domes and buttresses reaching higher. There are many sheer rock walls of 500 m (1600 ft) or more and the escarpment is breached by numerous passes and slopes. It is a water rich area and great rivers such as the Orange River and the Tugela start their long and important journey in these mountains. The escarpment itself is known as the High Berg and the most famous part of the High Berg is the 4 kilometre wide sheer basalt wall of the Amphitheatre (from which the Tugela plunges over 850 metres in five clear leaps- one of the highest waterfalls in the world). Montusi lies opposite the Amphitheatre at a distance of about 15 km.

Below the High Berg are numerous lower, grass covered mountains and hills projecting into KZN. This area is known as the Little Berg and its most conspicuous landmark is the line of yellow sandstone cliffs running the entire length of the Drakensberg. The Little Berg has innumerable valleys and gorges cut into it by rivers and streams, with wide open grasslands as well as lush indigenous vegetation. Waterfalls, caves, rockpools, mountain streams and numerous secret spots make for fantastic hiking, riding and fishing country. The views of the High Berg are spectacular with sunrise and sunset among the favourite times of the day.

In fact, it is an area of absolute wonder, which many authors have tried to capture in words:

Jaynee Levy says in her Complete Guide to Walks and Trails in Southern Africa: "The Drakensberg, the highest mountain range in southern Africa, is noted for its magnificent buttresses and peaks. The numerous trails which traverse the Little 'Berg, with its enchanting waterfalls and pools and lush, forested gorges, have a magnetic attraction for mountaineers and hikers, while the magnificent views from the escarpment lure those with an adventurous spirit. Here, the summer heat is tempered by altitude and the occasional spectacular afternoon thunderstorm; the very cold winters cap the peaks in snow".

Sue Derwent in Africa Geographic (formerly Africa Environment & Wildlife) - issue August 2001: "Dawn in the Drakensberg is a sight to swell the heart and send the spirit soaring. The dark, basalt walls of the escarpment surge dramatically into a vast pink- and copper-streaked sky. In the valleys, soft charcoal-and-mauve clouds whirl and dissolve into rocky gorges. The sun seeps into forests of yellowwoods, cycads and dripping tree ferns and its rays illuminate the magnificent buttresses of orange sandstone, highlighting the streams of water tumbling from peaks and ramparts. For hundreds of throusands of years this scene has been replayed, and witnessed by many who have found shelter and sustenance in these dramatic mountains. Archaeological sites representing the Early, Middle and late Stone Age periods have been uncovered in the Drakensberg and are among the most important in southern Africa".

From the point of view of access the Berg is generally divided into Northern, Central and Southern Berg. Antbear is in the Central Berg, i.e. roughly half way between Johannesburg (4.5 hours) and Durban (2 hours). The nearest town is Estcourt 25km

Geology of the KZN Drakensberg

The geology of the KZN Drakensberg consists of horizontal layers of igneous and sedimentary rock. The base is formed by fine sandstone and shale found at the bottom of the Little Berg valleys. Above this lies the coarse glittering blue/grey sandstone found in the ledges and terraces at the foot of the Little Berg. Above this, fine red or purple shales form the steep slopes below the sandstone cliffs which are soft and fine and a cream colour. These are the overhangs and caves where the San (bushmen) lived. On top of these layers is the basalt layer up to 1300m thick, resulting from lava flows some 160 million years ago, and providing a protective capping for the underlying soft sandstone layers. Erosion by wind and water has left impressive valleys and gorges as nature works its way through the basalt and then the easy sandstone layers.

Weather of the KZN Drakensberg

Like most mountain areas, our climatic conditions can change very suddenly and hikers must always be prepared for sudden changes in the weather. The seasons are not as clearly marked as in the Northern hemisphere. Generally, we have a long summer and short winter. The Berg can at times be windy, especially in August, or misty, especially in summer, but no unpleasant weather ever lasts more than a few days, if that. We really do have a superb climate, generally warm but not sweltering hot, and absolutely malaria-free.

Our long summers, which run from approximately October/November to March, are characterised by warm sunny days with showers and thunderstorms. The rain is sometimes just a drizzle providing a welcome temporary cool-off (and blazing sun afterwards).The thunderstorms can be very violent and spectacular. It is our wet time of the year with the waterfalls and rivers full and the grasslands and vegetation a lush green under a deep blue sky.

Autumn, from April to June, is a beautifully calm time of year, with lovely warm days and the nights gradually getting cooler.

Winter, late June, July and August, is very dry (the "colour scheme" is now yellow under a pale blue sky), with the days still often at an agreeable 20-22 C but cold nights with frost on the ground and occasional snow. This is a superb time of year for active pursuits such as hiking and riding and cosy and romantic nights with blazing logfires and millions of stars shimmering crystal clear in the winter sky. Veldfires are common in winter and form an essential part of the ecological cycle. They are controlled by fire breaks with neighbours co-operating to direct and control the fires.

Spring, usually September and October, brings much needed rain, an explosion of blooming flora and the gradual change from yellow veld back to green.

Drakensberg Flora and fauna

With such climatic and geological conditions it is no wonder that our fauna, and especially flora, are unique. Apart from the very elusive leopard, we do not have the Big Five, but we do have fantastic antelope, birdlife (especially birds of prey), smaller mammals and reptiles. The largest antelope is the eland, at 700 kgs, and now only to be found within the borders of the National Parks. Smaller buck, especially reedbuck, bushbuck, blesbuck and duikers, are spotted frequently. Lynx, serval, African wildcat, black-backed jackals, Cape fox, large spotted genets and otters occur also. Some of our snakes are dangerous (puffadders and rinkhals) but accidents are very rare and can be avoided altogether when keeping to a few basic rules. Baboons and rock dassies can be seen on the cliffs. A multitude of small rodents provide prey for the soaring eagles and vultures. Our birdlife is prolific with species count at over 200. Commonly seen are kingfishers, storks (in winter), eagles and buzzards, secretary birds, owls, doves, nightjars, swifts, tits, shrikes, weavers, etc.

High up on the Berg you will find unique, hardy and very fragile mountain flora similar to the flora in other high altitude places, such as the European Alps. Hence the botanical description Alpine (on the Escarpment) and Sub-Alpine (from the sandcliffs to the Escarpment) vegetation. On the slopes of the Little Berg vegetation is called Montane (i.e.from the sandstone cliffs downwards). The most prolific vegetation is actually grass (many different types) and it is here where the really unique plants and trees grow in secluded valleys, especially proteas, cycads, tree ferns, cabbage trees and occasional giants such as Yellow Woods. Common flowers include lilies, lion's tail, agapanthus, red hot poker, watsonia, helicrysum, erica, etc.

People of the Drakensberg

For thousands of years the Drakensberg was inhabited by the unobtrusive Bushmen (San or KhoiSan) who left their delicately balanced natural environment totally intact. Sadly, the San were displaced by the pressures of Nguni tribes and European farmers. Today only their many rock paintings remain and it is estimated that over 35% of all San rock art in Southern Africa is found in the KZN Drakensberg area alone, with new sites still being found to this day. The paintings are usually quite scattered and often very difficult to reach. However, concentrations occur e.g. in the Giants Castle area, and many individual sites can be reached after a pleasant hike (e.g. on the Montusi estate).

Today's custodians of the Berg are the Zulu people, in our area particularly the AmaZizi and AmaNgwane, descendants of Zulu tribes that fled from Shaka Zulu's terror in the early nineteenth century. Compared to many other parts of the country, they still live a traditional and very rural way of life, with tribal areas ruled by chiefs. Wealth and status are determined by cattle and many of the men migrate to the big cities to find work. It is a relatively peaceful but very poor area with subsistence farming and tourism the only sources of income.

The Drakensberg is unfortunately not one administrative entity. Those areas that do not fall under tribal jurisdiction are managed by the provincial wildlife authority (KZNNCS) on the one hand and private landowners on the other using the land for farming and/or tourism.

uKhahlamba National Park (formerly Royal Natal National Park)

The most important National Park in the Northern Berg is uKhahlamba National Park (formerly Royal Natal National Park). It has some of the Berg's most dramatic and accessible scenery with the impressive Amphitheatre, spectacular from below as well as above, and behind it the Mont-Aux-Sources, "source" of the Tugela, Elands and Western Khubedu Rivers (which later becomes the mighty Orange River). Well known landmarks are the Devil's Tooth, the Eastern Buttress and, lower down, the Policeman's Helmet. The best known hike in the Park is the Tugela Gorge walk, an easy and very beautiful path meandering through the gorge closer and closer to the sheer rock face of the Amphitheatre and the Tugela waterfall, until the rocks and cliffs become too steep to continue. The path is clearly signposted from the car park near the entrance to Tendele Camp. The total navigable length of the path is 7 km (and 7 km back) with boulder hopping and some ladders towards the end (or go through the tunnel but keep a look out for sudden rain). For best value basketware and other curios, don't forget to stop at Thandanani, a clearly marked colourful brick building on the right hand side of the road, a few kilometers before the entrance to National Park.

Another very rewarding dayhike is the ascent of the Amphitheater plateau, a little more strenuous, but an experience of a lifetime provided you have adequate boots and clothing, normal physical fitness and you are unafraid of heights (!). Access is not normally through the National Park but from the Sentinel Car Park which can be reached after driving across the Oliviershoek pass to Phuthaditjhaba (we recommend taking a guide; the interesting drive takes about two hours from Montusi). After signing the mountain register and a fairly strenuous hike to the contour path, your efforts are rewarded with a much easier path, the first spectacular views over the edge of the cliffs into Natal, and, on the other side, far into the Free State. The contour path ends with two chain ladders (securely fastened and used by thousands of hikers), to reach the top of the (flat) escarpment. A gentle stroll to the Natal side of the escarpment (don't get too close to the edge!) and you are literally standing on the edge of the roof of Southern Africa with views deep into Natal (provided there are no clouds below you) and across Lesotho.The return journey is back down the chain ladders or down through the gully where scrambling is required, but, again, thousands have done it before you. A truly magnificent hike that you will remember for the rest of your life.

UNESCO World Heritage Site

To our delight, the KZN Drakensberg was proclaimed South Africa's fourth UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of only 30 sites in the whole world that will be preserved for posterity for both its natural (mountain scenery) and cultural value (the San rock art). The other World Heritage Sites in South Africa are Robben Island, St. Lucia Wetlands National Park and the Kranskop archaeological areas.

Drakensberg Boys Choir School | Hiking Maps of the Drakensberg | Drakensberg and Natal Midlands Weddings | Drakensberg day walks and walking trails | Fauna and flora of the Drakensberg - A treasure chest | Links to Drakensberg Tourism Partners |